The Fundamentals: How to Appropriately Apply Retinoids

by Dr. Avee Naidoo (2023).

1. Retinoids should always be applied in the evenings.

Why? It is believed that retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays during the day, and sun exposure can cause breakdown of the product, making your retinoid less effective.

2. Wash your skin with a gentle, hydrating cleanser and pat dry.

(See ‘The Essential Guide to a Clean & Simple Skincare Routine’ for more information)

3. It is essential to start with a pea-sized amount of the product

Retinoids are potent, and a little goes a long way!

4. Gently dot the active agent onto your forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin.

This allows for an even distribution of a thin layer of the product on your face.

5. Using clean fingers, spread it evenly across your face, avoiding the delicate skin around your eyes and lips.

6. It's important to follow up by applying a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation.

TIP: Still having irritation, redness or peeling when starting a retinoid? Try applying moisturizer both before and after the application of a retinoid, also known as the 'sandwich method’.

7. Slowly increase the frequency of retinoid use.

Initially, use the retinoid twice a week to every other night to allow your skin to adjust, and gradually increase frequency as your skin becomes accustomed to it.

8. Always remember to wear sunscreen during the day

Patience is key, as it may take a few weeks to months to see

noticeable improvements in your skin's texture and appearance.

TIP #1: Prescription retinoids should be avoided or limited in people with facial eczema or rosacea as it can aggravate their skin condition. TIP #2: Over-the-counter retinols are great steppingstone prior to transitioning to more potent, prescription retinoids.

TIP #3: If your skin is too sensitive for a retinoid or retinol, try bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative that has similar effects on the skin, which includes: improving skin tone and texture, stimulating skin cell turnover, and smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles.